I am far from a chocoholic, which puts me in a definite minority at most gatherings. I do, however, appreciate the occasional small nugget, especially if it’s on the bitter side. This bark, with its roasty, dark undertones, is a pleasure to pass around the table.

Espresso-hazelnut bitter chocolate bark
Makes about 1 pound

3 ounces (about 1/2 cup) raw hazelnuts
1/2 pound bittersweet chocolate, chopped
1/2 ounce (1/4 cup) espresso beans
1/2 teaspoon flaky sea salt (optional)

Heat the oven to 400°F. Spread the hazelnuts on a baking sheet and roast until well browned and fragrant, 10 to 15 minutes (the skins should look nearly burnt). Put the hazelnuts in a clean kitchen towel and rub briskly to remove the skins. Coarsely chop the nuts. Lightly crush the espresso beans with a rolling pin.

In a double boiler, slowly melt 6 ounces of the chocolate, stirring occasionally until the mixture is smooth.

Make sure to keep the heat low, to prevent any moisture or steam from touching the chocolate. When it is completely melted, remove from the heat and stir in the remaining 2 ounces of chocolate. Pour onto a parchment-lined baking sheet, spreading the chocolate to a ¼-inch thickness with a spatula. Sprinkle the hazelnuts evenly over the surface. Repeat with the crushed espresso beans and the sea salt, if desired. Refrigerate, uncovered, until completely hardened.

Break into rough pieces to serve.

CREDIT: Excerpted from One Good Dish by David Tanis (Artisan Books) Copyright 2013. Photographs by Gentl & Hyers.